Winner of In-Cosmetics 2018 Award for Best Green Ingredient, Lessonia has created a new ingredient called Flucoreverse sourced from Laminaria, a type of seaweed, that grows in the Iroise Sea in France. They are found deeper into the water and are out of sea only during the low-water period of spring tides.
Inside the cellular membrane of Laminaria is a fucoidan structure, a fucose-rich polysaccharide, that plays a protective and restorative role in rebuilding tissue. The laminaria has developed this system in response to the extreme conditions of the coast.
Lessonia, in an effort to be eco-friendly, has extracted this compound in an eco-friendly manner which they call an algae biorefinerie. Fucoidans are extracted and hydrolyzed
specifically to manufacture Fucoreverse which limits the marine resources used. Typical extraction processes will extract other non-relevant compounds which are potentially used for other applications.
Their randomized double-blind against placebo clinical trial on 42 subjects highlighted a reduction of wrinkle’s depth, with the active group reporting a decrease of up to 18.9% and the difference between the placebo and active group being 9.1%. 70% of women also observed a reduction of the main wrinkles. The study also suggested that in terms of irritation, subjects using Flucoreverse reported better skin tolerance of the product than compared with those in the placebo group.
Why does it work so well?
Both skin absorption and biological activity of the fucoidan derivates are inversely proportional to the molecular weight of the molecules. Fucoreserve uses high molecular Fucoidans which aids in the absorption process.
Fucoses are found both in the epidermis and in the dermisof the human skin where they are used by fibroblasts to synthetize glycoproteins. The application of fucoses to the skin cells achieves a variety of stimulatory effects. It promotes the accelerated healing
of wounds (regeneration) and reduces allergic reactions which makes fucoses a perfect ingredient to target for anti-aging cosmetics.
M LESUEUR, “Seaweed Industry in France”, A report written by the Cellule Etudes et Transfert of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences Center of AGROCAMPUS OUEST and University of Brest AMURE (UBO) within the framework of the NETALGAE project(2012, http://halieutique.agrocampus-ouest.fr/pdf/3744.pdf)